Gentle reader,

If you’re like me, you’re pretty much over all this recent Hollywood bullshit about now, what with overdosing actors, child molesting directors and endless red carpets. On top of that, try dressing actresses with names that sound like Soviet gymnasts for press junkets for vampire movies you’ll never see. On the other hand, hunky British actor Alex Pettyfer did take off his pants and hand them to me the other day so I guess it’s not all bad.

Prada Campaign

Prada

Anyway, I thought we could leave behind all this Tinseltown craziness for a few minutes and go back to focusing and what’s really important:  fashion. There were scores of fall menswear shows last month and four straight weeks of women’s fall collections start today in New York but I don’t think we ever got around to summing up the Spring 2014 trends and, let’s face it, whether you’re slogging through snow drifts in the Midwest or lamenting the partly cloudy L.A. skies, spring is what’s on the racks now.

Going purely by what came down the runways, this is going to be a strong season with a lot of big and very diverse directions: Western and tribal, wide pants and crop tops, metallics and fringe and, yet again, the return of sheer fabrics and the 90s.  (Designers, please take note, I’ve really had enough of the 90s. Thank you.)

One of the coolest trends, I think, was using fine art as a reference. The Chanel show was even held on a set made to resemble a contemporary art gallery of yore and the clothes certainly had their painterly touches, too, with brushstrokes and canvas cutouts where the signature tweeds usually are. Celine had a similarly bright brushstroke palette while Mrs. Prada painted big ladies’ faces onto coats, dresses and everything else.  It was shocking when you see it all together but less so when it’s just one piece.  Finally, Giles Deacon’s moody sepia ensembles featuring blown up versions of Glen Luchford’s photographs of 90s supermodels work when you want to tone it all down a bit.  And, trust me, after seeing the Chanel stuff, you will.

Chanel S/S 14 set Grand Palais

Chanel Set

Another highlight was the appropriation of athletic wear in serious fashion, as we’ve been seeing in menswear over the last couple of seasons.  Gucci was most luxurious in combining athletic mesh, sometimes cut from suede or leather, with delicate Art Deco-patterned silk in the shape of basketball shorts and jerseys.  Tommy Hilfiger had some great color-blocked surf-inspired looks in neoprene, but there was a pervasive “unzipped wetsuit” detail that made it look like anyone who dared wear it better visit their waxing specialist first.  The Most Sporty Sports-Inspired award must go to Prada with those bizarre basketball uniform details.  They paired those big faces I mentioned with crazy knee-high athletic socks and sneaker-heels and bejeweled sports bras.  Oh, and fur coats.  For spring!

Well, that’s just the tip of this crazy ass iceberg we call spring fashion. More to come.  You’re welcome.

Much love,

xxJames

Giles

Giles Deacon